Home FashionParis Fashion Week: Key Takeaways from the Spring-Summer 2025 Collections

Paris Fashion Week: Key Takeaways from the Spring-Summer 2025 Collections

by Black Vine
Alexander McQueen

In the face of daunting challenges, what significance does fashion hold? As France and much of Europe contend with the unsettling rise of far-right political movements, high-profile legal battles linked to the #MeToo movement, and a slump in the luxury goods sector, designers at Paris Fashion Week, which wrapped up on Tuesday, posed this provocative question.

Heritage Meets Surrealism

For some designers, a connection to heritage offered solace, while others leaned into surrealism and bold aesthetics, signaling a desire for escape. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali continued to develop her bohemian vision, drawing inspiration from the brand’s origins. The collection featured floral patterns, ruffled blouses, pleated sleeves, airy silhouettes, and delicate ballerina flats, embodying the ethereal charm synonymous with the label.

Chemena Kamali
Chemena Kamali 1970s Fashion Inspo/Getty
Fall Fashion Week Paris 2024
Chemena Kamali Fall Fashion Week Paris 2024/Getty

Valentino’s highly anticipated show took place on Sunday, marking the debut of Alessandro Michele, the new creative director from Gucci. Michele explored Valentino’s extensive archives, particularly its vibrant ’70s era, resulting in a vintage-inspired collection rich with bows, polka dots, lace gloves, and sequins—details that were strikingly intricate upon close inspection.

Alexander McQueen’s Seán McGirr showcased his second collection, drawing inspiration from the mythical figure of “the banshee,” a nod to the late founder’s influences from the ’90s. The collection presented gothic silhouettes and imposing platform heels, paying tribute to the brand’s iconic legacy.

Reviving Indie Sleaze

Ann Demeulemeester debuted an indie sleaze revival, harkening back to the pop culture zeitgeist dominated by alternative music from 2006 to 2012. Under Stefano Gallici’s creative direction, the collection featured New Romantic influences, showcasing ruffled collars, sheer lace, and relaxed tailoring. “It was a deep exploration of my teenage years…living with my band,” Gallici recounted backstage.

Surrealism in Contemporary Context

As the Centre Pompidou celebrated the 100th anniversary of Surrealism—a movement that arose amidst Europe’s fascist struggles and a general loss of meaning—this artistic legacy inspired not only curators but also fashion designers. Alphonse Maitrepierre’s collection incorporated modern technology, showcasing USB drives, game controllers, and computer screens as wearable art. “I wondered how the Surrealist movement would manifest today,” he explained. “It would likely be more tech-savvy and geek-oriented.”

The surrealist theme was evident across the collections: Issey Miyake transformed sweaters into dresses, Ottolinger reimagined shirts by deconstructing them into accessories, and Paloma Wool gave knitwear a fresh perspective.

Coperni added a whimsical touch to the surrealist theme with a show staged at Disneyland. Models strutted the runway in Mickey Mouse-inspired heels and playful handbags. Designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant drew on childhood memories to evoke feelings of innocence and fantasy, featuring dramatic lighting and pyrotechnics around the iconic Sleeping Beauty castle.

Designer-less Creations

In the Grand Palais, Chanel presented a collection without a designated designer, showcasing delicate embroidery and intricate featherwork crafted by its in-house team. The collection celebrated “delicacy, lightness, and movement” through sheer capes, layered tweeds, and skirts adorned with fringes and sequins, highlighting the artisan craftsmanship for which Chanel is renowned.

Dries Van Noten also exhibited a collection without a specific designer, honoring the founder while offering a fresh take. The lineup included lingerie, oversized blazers, flowing dresses, and Bermuda shorts, all reimagined with vibrant colors and rich embroidery.

Fall Fashion Week Paris

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2024 at Paris Fashion Week

A Focus on Sustainability

Stella McCartney’s show underscored sustainability, featuring a collection that was 91% recyclable. The designs merged party pieces with menswear influences and prominently featured a bird motif on printed silks and necklaces, serving as a protest against the fashion industry’s impact on wildlife. “I’ve been contemplating the billions of birds killed for fashion,” McCartney stated backstage. “They symbolize freedom, purity, and peace. It’s about achieving a light touch and balancing femininity and masculinity.”

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood dedicated his collection to environmental activist Paul Watson, currently incarcerated in Greenland for his anti-whaling efforts. The collection paid tribute to Dame Vivienne’s legacy, blending feminine elements with industrial aesthetics, reminding us that punk is a philosophy that extends beyond clothing.

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